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Technical Aspects
Everyone usually takes architecture for granted without
giving it any thought whatsoever. Most people have not a clue of just how
much engineering and technical considerations go into a design like this.
Even most builders are oblivious to all the details involved and get caught
short once they get into something like this.
Running through the centers of the concrete columns are
pressure-treated 6x6 posts. The posts are extended 2 feet above the columns
to tie the whole beam structure together. Yet, no portion of the posts are
visible.
In
order to accommodate the 4-way canopy pattern, the stub-beams had to be
doubled, as opposed to the single stub-beam configuration in the earlier
single-billow versions. However there was no need to double the corbels too, so
they were left single and centered beneath the stub-beam pairs.
Look closely at the
photo to the right to see how the bottoms of these corbels were used to lock
in the tops of the two halves of the split concrete columns.
Because the intersection of the stub-beams around each post
involves a large flat area on the top of the beams with seams, a pyramidal cap (visible in the second photo at the top of this page) was placed atop
each intersection to direct water beyond the seams.
A similar thing was done directly above the columns
atop their capitals, but there the pyramidal shape is segregated into four
quadrants because of its intersection with the corbels. This not only
deflects rain water but eliminates bird-nesting areas atop the otherwise flat capital
corners.
Minor lateral bracing was gained from tying the
underlying corbels on each post to the arches above them. However, the major
lateral bracing came from the arches themselves: once the four arches were
fastened between the pairs of stub-beams with three 16-inch bolts at each
end, the entire arbor became absolutely rigid, eliminating any potential for
induced vibration from wind or earthquake.
And you don't see any of those 24 tie-in bolts anywhere.
Every corner in the canopy
involved a compound miter between incident 4x4s, where the angles
were different for each course. Making this more complex was the fact that each
pair had compound angles that were the opposite of one another.
Every 4x4 in the canopy was glued together with a
polyurethane caulk before fastening it with multiple 6-inch long Dacronite
screws. That's so water from overnight dew and rain would not seep
in-between the one hundred 4x4 connections and cause dryrot in the future.
Every flat surface was covered with 1/8-inch thick PVC
capping to prevent parching and cracking of the wooden elements in the harsh
California summer sun and dry-rot damage from perpetual over-night dew and
the winter rains. Since there was a lot of canopy (600 sq ft) this was no
small endeavor nor minor cost.
Every 4x4 was covered with white PVC plastic from the skylight out to the end of
the brim. All the components of the skylight, both grid and rim, were also capped
with PVC. Every stub-beam and those flat diagonal 2x4
umbrella-canopies atop the columns were all capped with PVC. So was every
6x12 beam from the pyramidal cap right out to their carved ends.
Do you see all those little tubular spacers between the 4x4s
running from top to bottom of the canopy? For the exterior portion of the
canopy they are necessary for keeping the exposed ends of the 4x4s in the long
brims
(a
whopping 6 foot
overhang) from diverging as the 4x4s weather over the years.
And for the inner portion they were an engineering
necessity for distributing the weight of the skylight (300 lbs) evenly among
all the otherwise unbalanced 4x4s.
The canopy of this arbor is a first in arbor engineering
-- it's what I call an "integrated open canopy". There are no rafters going
up the corners in the interior nor are there any rafters at the outer end of
the brims. There's also no cross-bracing whatsoever. The weight of every component of
the canopy is channeled cumulatively down to the four supporting columns by
strategically placed connectors. See this page where I am offering
simplified arbors employing this specific engineering concept; these arbors
require no
major beams or arches and are relatively inexpensive because of it:
ArborsAlready.
Arbors like this are one of a kind. That means nobody can
be trained ahead of time to fabricate and erect this kind of structure only
once and get everything right on the first try. So I had no alternative but
to build this arbor solo without any help. Yet with six earlier brim &
billow structures under my toolbelt, this arbor was still a challenge for
me.
At
each stage in the construction there was no possibility to correct anything
that was already done because of the tight integration of all the
components. There were many intermediate precautionary measures that had
to be taken just to make sure it turned out plumb and level in the end.
And you don't see any seams at all in those split concrete columns.
Most contractors I know would have just left the seams exposed because after all,
they are "split columns, what do you expect?"
Keep in mind this is a residential project, not a
commercial one where money is otherwise budgeted for bringing in all the
skilled trades as needed. If this were a commercial project, it
would have cost around $150,000.

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So what does something like this cost in a residential backyard?
I built this 600 sq. ft. arbor with no mistakes and no setbacks, so I
know what it takes in both materials and labor. With minimum labor, it took 6 weeks in the shop and
another 10½ weeks to erect. In
addition, the price for an arbor like this must, by necessity, include all
the design details and the engineering and they're not free. Further,
you have to pay for the copyrighted design because you can't get it anywhere
else and I've paid my dues demonstrating its feasibility. So you'll
pay what will motivate me to reproduce it and I make no apology for its price-tag.
If you want something like this, your budget should be
in the $55K+ range plus costs for a full set of drawings and indeterminate
fees for the building permit and its procurement.
For this project, there
was a 10 foot setback requirement due to a buried sewer line running along
the property's right boundary that no one knew about, where the normal setback is
only 5 feet -- and that wasn't discovered until the design and all its
details were already put into drawings and a long trip was made to a distant
county building department to no avail. If something of this nature happens,
it's your expense, not mine.
Also, if the project is farther away from San Martin
than 50 miles, you have to have a nicely maintained place for me to stay or
pay for my hotel stay until the project is finished.

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